Archiv der Kategorie: Travel

12th July 2009

The next day, 12th of July, is a bank holiday in Northern Ireland, as on that day the Battle of Boyne took place. This requires a short trip into Irish history. The Battle of Boyne took place on the 12th July 1690 and is the reason or basis of the later upcoming conflicts between the catholics and anglicans in Northern Ireland. Every year the Orange Order is celebrating it’s victory over the Irish and the marches that take place on that day have often been the reason for troubles in Northern Ireland during the last years. I was curious if we would see such a march of the Orange Order, but the way to Tollymore Park didn’t lead us near the town and it was unlikely that we would meet them in the park.

The whole day was acompanied by a change of rain and sun, which is the typicall Irish weather and luckily we were mostly underneath the trees and didn’t even need weatherproof jackets and things like that. The Tollymore Forrest Park has a huge range of old and very big trees and a small river running through the park. The park has been founded in the 18th century and some of the trees are still out of that time. The park slightly reaches the Mourne Mountains so that we only had a very small rise to face. The tour lasted until 4 p.m, when we reached Newcastle Town and therefore had the possiblity to take a walk along the beach and drink a coffee. Newcastle town has an excellent coffee by the way. It’s name is „KREM“ and it’s situated on the main street. They also serve the typicall Irish cake and cookies (for everybody who doesn’t like it too sweet, be carefull!)

The day ended in the pub again …

11th July 2009

On 11th of July 2009 I started of to my first guided hiking tour in Northern Ireland, organised by Highländer Travel. Due to a really early flight from Frankfurt I already had to get up at 5 a.m. When I arrived at the airport I realised that my trip to Northern Ireland started at the same day as the local school holidays, so that the airport was pretty croweded at that time already. I took me over 30 minutes to get throught the passport control as there were only 2 counters opened (clever idea at the beginning of the holidays) and there was a time when I was pretty much sure that I would miss my flight. Luckily that didn’t happen…

The flight itself went pretty good, even if the pilot told us before we had to face problems with the weather and he calculated with 15 minutes delay. When we reached Dublin I checked my documents again, telling me I would meet the guide and the rest of the group on the chauffeur’s point. This isn’t really a „point“. When I came out of the arrival area there were already people standing who held signs of Highländer and several tours. Luckily there was as well someone with a Northern Ireland sign and her name was Astrid. She told me that we still had an hour to wait on a flight from southern Germany before our transfer to Northern Ireland would start.

At 2.00 p.m. we started with a group of 14 people in a small bus. Our first night we would spend in a town that was called Newcastle, unfortunatly that town has nothing to do with the Newcastle Browne Ale… The hotel we stayed in was the Burrendale Hotel and the transfer there took us about 2 and a half hours. The hotel itself is a pretty modern Spa hotel with sauna and swimming pool (not what one would normally expect in a small town in Northern Ireland)[nbsp] and it was situated a good walk outside Newcastle.

We got our room keys and agreed to meet for dinner where Astrid was going to explain the upcoming tour for the next day to us.

Dinner in the Burrendale Hotel was pretty much typically Irish. Meat, Fish or Chicken with a typical mix of vegetables and potatoes in all possible kind of ways. That kind of dinner would not really change throught out the upcoming week, which became a problem especially for the vegetarians, as vegetarian food in Northern Ireland is mainly noodles with vegetables.

After Dinner Astrid explained to us the route for the next day. We would walk through the Tollymore Forrest Park and the tour would only be about 5 hours, mainly to get used to the weather and the walking itself.

The day ended in the hotel’s bar with a pint of Guiness or Cider, absolutely normal for Ireland.

 

10th August 2007

Unfortunatly Friday was our last day and we got back into city center for some final shopping. I wanted to have some celtic jewelry and I found some in Temple Bar to my absolut surprise.

Finally we had to get to the airport and after we checked in it started to rain. Due to the rain we took off later and when we landed in Frankfurt we had to face a thunder-storm which made our landing quite uncomfortable.

As for Dublin I can generally say if you have been there once it’s fine, but I feel no need to get back to the city itself again. It’s really like any other capital I have seen so far and has not the flair of the rest of the country. Compared to the trip in 2005 where I travelled the western coast Dublin is clearly the looser…..

9th August 2007

For Thursday we expected rain, so we had already planned to see some museums and the Jameson Distilleries on that day. First stop should be Kilmainham Jail, the prison where in 1918 the last revolutionists have been executed and where a lot of sentences of death have been fullfilled.

To find the way from the bus station was quite more difficult than I had expected as we didn’t see any signs leading us to it. There is no possibility to walk through Kilmainham Jail by oneself, so we had to join a guide that looked as I have always thought a typical professor would look like. He explained a lot about the history of the prison and the Irish fight for independence. At the beginning they mainly practised the beheading after the prisoners had been hung and this was done under the eyes of the public as determent. From the start of the 20th century they finally stopped that at least and the prisoners were mainly shot, whereas they were 10 soldiers shooting one person so that none of those should have the feeling he was giving the deadly shot. Kilmainham Jail has as well been a place were a lot of movies have been filmed (e.g. In the name of the father, Michael Collins, Italian Job) which can easily be explained by the impressive interior of the prison. We paid 5 euros for a one hour guidance and that was more than okay and is every cent worth it.

We headed back in the city by bus to see Jameson. I have never been in a distillery so far, even if I really prefer whiskey if it comes to stronger alcohol. Here we had to join a guide as well and the tour was really interessting. The actual distillery is in Cork nowadays and they only use the building in Dublin for museum purposes. The tour ended with a whiskey tasting and afterwards we walked through the tiny shop inside. We took some smaller bottles of whiskey with us which were all a different age.. A normal sized bottle costs about 38 Euros or more. In general I figured out that the whiskey can be bought cheaper in Germany than in Ireland. Interesting would have been the different rare version they offered, which normally were about 100 Euros or more.

From Jameson we decided to skip the Guiness Brewery and go shopping instead and when we returned to our B [&] B I had to clarify if we could leave our luggage in the B [&] B for the next day and get it on the way to the airport, so that we would still have some time in the city on Friday. Joseph [&] Liz were more than helpfull and it turned out to be absolutely no problem.

We returned to city center for a pub again. This time Kennedy’s which was nearly deserted compared to any other pub I had visited in that week. The only other visitors in the pub were all Irish, so that it was pretty much fun anyways.

8th August 2007

Wednesday would be my favorite day when I look back on that trip nowadays. We started for a trip to Howth which can be easily reached by bus. We jumped of the bus at Howth Summit and started with the Cliff Walk. We headed North first until the road was blocked suddenly and we had to turn around a take the southern route. We had extremely good weather and the view from the cliffs was perfect. Due to my wish to get as near to the water as possible I sometimes could feel a hand grabbing me from behind and telling me I would get beaten up if I’d go any nearer to the edging and so I didn’t start to climb down at some parts. I am still quite sure it would have been possible. As always when I get sun and water at the same time I burned my skin and as there is absolutely no tree that would spend some shadow during that route we were quite thirsty and exhausted when we reached Howth (town). Here we visited Cafe Caira at East Pier where we had fish and chips. I have to admit this has been the one and only time I really loved this. The fish was directly out of the water and the chips were handcut, absolutely delicious.

We left Howth with the Dart (which pointed out to be a normal train). The Dart departs every 10 min from Howth to Dublin and is much faster than the bus. We ended up at Conolly station and I had again overestimated my abilities to find my way from there to O’Connell Bridge. We got help from a nice Dubliner again and so we finally reached Trinity College where I wanted to have a closer look this time. I must admit that I was some kind of envious when I walked through that College and compared it to my university. I guess it is really fun to study there. They have fantastic sports facilities and I had the impression that most of the students were sitting outside in the sun or playing tennis or rugby.

Perfect day for me with lot’s of sun, water and fresh air….

7th August 2007

Tuesday morning we got up really soon as I still wanted to get to the tourist information to book a trip to the Wicklow Mountains. My mobile started to ring at 7.00 a.m, which normally should be forbidden during holidays…

Before we got anywhere we faced Liz‘ breakfast. The breakfast in the ABC Guesthouse is perfect and the coffee was really good. We could choose between Irish and Continental and the Continental had really everything you could wish for.

After the experience from Monday we took the bus to O’Connell Bridge, which is nearly the opposite of Trinity College. No chance to miss that. We were extremely lucky when the guy in the Tourist Info told us that a bus would start to the Wicklow Mountains in 30 minutes and we could get in that if we wanted to. We booked that trip and went to the bus station where our guide picked us up. Here name was Niamh and I was enchanted as I had just finished a book where this was the name of the main character and I thought (at that time) that the name wasn’t a common name in any country. Niamh was so nice to tell us during the trip that her name was a pagan name and that in Ireland nowadays it is only allowed to baptise a child with a pagan name when it is given a christian one as seccond name, so that most girls / women with the name Niamh have Mary as second name. She told us a lot of the history and old traditions during our trip to the Wicklow Mountains where we were finally allowed to leave the bus. The Wicklow Mountains were quite impressive for me at this time of the year as the whole ground was covered with heather and I found this extremely beautiful.

From Wicklow Gap we drove to Glendalough, which pointed out to be some ancient religious site. A huge tower is standing there which is about 30 meters high (at least I believe this is what was told to us). In the ancient times there used to be a church and a priest’s house as well but those are merely ruins now. Glendalough translated means City at two seas and so there are two sees which we surounded during the time we were allowed to spend there. Niamh told us that the legends tell about a sea monster living in one of them which is the reason for a prohibition to bath in the seas…

From Glendalough we drove to Alvoca. This is where one of the oldest irish weaving mills is situated and it was quite impressive to see those looms in action. In the weaving mill there is a cafe as well where we had an absolute phantastic tomato soup and they have a store where they sell products that have been made in the mill.

We reached Dublin at 6.00 p.m again and so I still had time to take some photos in Temple Bar before we ended up in a pub again

6th August 2007

On Monday morning we had to get up at 6.00 am to get to the airport, so I was standing in front of the check in counter quite tired … and then it happend. I don’t know if anybody else is having this experience with travelling over and over again. I certainly do so….there was a family in front of me, a huge one…that had obviously not read the instructions provided by Ryan Air. Travelling with Ryan air means that you have a limit of one bag for check in and one hand luggage and there are limits for weight and size of both. That family had a lot of more luggage than allowed and the woman at the counter told them they had to pay for that additionally. An argument was starting (I was thinking of coffee in the lounge) and the argument took nearly 30 minutes until daddy got to the cash automat and got the money to pay the additional luggage…..

The flight itself was a little turbulent but we reached Dublin safe and sound and departed the airplane for the luggage. In Dublin Airport this is a little round the world trip if you land in Terminal A.

We had originally planned to get to Dublin by bus (from the airport) and did this with a 90 min ticket which we could by via an automat. After some bus stops I already knew what the problem in Dublin would be. There is no record of the bus stations so you never know exactly where you are at the moment and when the station you want to leave is coming. Most stations have names, but not all of them and they are not displayed in the bus. So it is pretty hard to figure out when you have to leave the bus. I asked an Irish sitting next to me and his explanation was quite simple. Tell the bus driver where you wan to get out and he will call you when you reach that stations. The Dublin bus drivers must have an enormous brain for being able to keep this in mind. But it worked pretty fine and after 25min in the bus he called for us and we left the bus directly in front of our bed and breakfast.

Liz was the one to welcome us and was one half of the owner of the bed and breakfast. The room was really nice and clean and to my absolute surprise they had blankets like I am used to have them at home. Normally when I travel somewhere outside Germany I am used to have several sheets combined to a blanket… We were directly informed that for breakfast we would be able to get coffee as well and I really hoped that this „coffee“ deserved it‘ s name… I’ve had terrible coffee in Ireland and normally switch over to tea when I’m there. I asked Liz how long it would take us to get to Trinity College if we walk the distance and she told us it would take us about 20 minutes, so I decided to walk there. Everybody who knows how good I am in reading maps would have already started to laugh at this point. Additionally I have absolutely no ability to orient myself. After one hour somewhere in Dublin and I must admit I had absolutely no clue where we were I tried to find the streetname on my map again and suddenly help arrived. Someone who was looking like a banker or lawyer stopped beside me and asked me if I had lost my way. When I told him where I was heading to he started to laugh and had to admit that I was quite a distance from Trinity College. Due to that nice guy I was first able to find the river (it’s a shame but we were running in circles so that we even didn’t get to the water) and from that we finally reached Temple Bar district, where I wanted to get into the tourist info. This was closed (bank holiday..) and so we ended up in some bar to have dinner and start my holidays with a typical Guiness in a pub named O’Neills.

When we decided to get back again we didn’t even try to walk back. We directly picked a bus and I could already figure out myself where we had to jump off (a fact I was quite proud of).

As for the weather (before I forget that). First day, first shower. A quite heavy one, but only for 20min or so….and to our great relief it would be the only shower for the whole week.

Ring of Beara & Dunboy Castle

Today we visited Ring of Beara. First of all I have to mention that even for people that know the streets in Ireland this can be quite hard. There are areas where the street is just that wide that two cars can pass it at the same time. No chance for car & bus. So it requires strong nerves and a calm driver (definitely not me).

Ring of Beara is definitely the most beautiful of the Southwest Coast of Ireland. The nature is quite wild and the weather was really good (sunburnt again). One of the things one should definitely go and see if traveling on the Ring of Beara would be Dunboy Castle.  In 2005 it was still a ruine, nowadays they have made a hotel out of it. In the lake in front of Dunboy Castle there’s a sunken ship so the whole area is very romantic.

The rest of the day we were shopping in Bantry and took our dinner in „Brick Oven“ which was absolutely delicious! Strongly recommended.

Weather: Sunny, warm

From Kenmare to Bantry

We left quite late for the drive to Bantry and it turned out that we were even to early to check in to the B & B. So we took a walk around Bantry House which is an ancient Queen Ann House where they have regularly small concerts or readings of authors. The gardens are very beautiful and Bantry has quite a warm climate so in the gardens they have palms and other rare plants.

Our Bed & Breakfast was named Rocklands which was quite nice and I would definitely recommend it. It’s 4 km from town centre, so still in walking distance.

As we were that early we had the whole afternoon to explore the area and we took a drive to Mizen Peninsula and Mizen Head. Compared to Ring of Kerry I’d definitely prefer this.

For dinner we went to the Bantry Bay Hotel. It turned out that Bantry is quite a sleepy little town..so there was nothing to do in town for the evening.

Weather: sunny, warm, sunburnt

Ring of Kerry & Killarney National Park

We started the Kerry way after a delicious Irish breakfast and guess what we watched first? A stone fort. Due to the very cloudy weather I can’t say that I really found it beautiful. When we reached Caherciveen we stopped by a ruine of a castle and from there proceeded to Killarney National Park.

We took the time to see Muckross House (very impressive) and had a walk through the gardens. There are offers for a drive with a carriage and we decided to do that on the day  before leaving as they are quite expensive. But on our way back to Kenmare we had the great possibility to see „Lady’s View“ with blue sky…so the difference should be obvious.

The evening we spent in Kenmare town again having our dinner in O’Donnabhain. Originally we had cast an eye on a restaurant called Lime Tree as I would have liked to have some fish again, but it tourned out they were closed that evening.

The weather was very windy, mostly try and even some sunny moments.